Tuesday, December 31, 2013

Colombia, Off Limits No More!

 
Tuesday, December 31, 2013
For a while I've heard that, Colombia, was off -limits for travel because of violent militia and drug trafficker wars. After the US State Department acknowledged a significant improvement in security, it is now back on the tourist map. 
Of all the port stops on this cruise, Cartagena was the most surprising
one. First of all, we had free shuttle buses that took us from the
gangway to the port exit which was less than half a mile. Following
the exit sign, I was surprised by a cluster of pink flamingos
appeared on my right side. 


“Am I in the right place? Am I in Singapore?” I said to myself. 
Walking along the boardwalk, I saw more birds with brilliant plumage.
Towering ginger plants grew in profusion with bright red and pink
flowers. Then a red squirrel came out of nowhere and ran in front
of us. On my left were more parrots, some bright green, and some
blue and red with a dash of yellow. Small bushes grow side by side,
and abundant tall trees provide ample shade contributing to the
relaxing atmosphere. The gardens surrounding the port office and
duty free shop made it a tropically beautiful scene.

Outside were taxi drivers in uniforms and with Identification cards around
their necks. We jumped into one with our friends Joyce and David

Our driver's name was Jose. He was supposed to take us to the Old
City but offered to take us for the whole day for US$80.00.

“You can go anywhere you want, I'll take you! Today is New Year's Eve and
a national holiday-so it will be difficult to get a cab back to the
ship,” he said convincingly.

We all agreed to go to the La Popa Convent first. Jose had to drive a
narrow twisting road to go up the steep mountain. There were several
switchbacks marked with the stations of the cross. 

“During Holy Week, more than four hundred thousand people climb the mountain
for the procession and they stop at these stations,” he said
referring to the crosses on the roadside
.

Once we got there, we had to pay a US$5.00 per person entrance fee at the
convent. It offered amazing views of the city. From our vantage, we
could see our ship directly below us. To our right was the 
Castilo de San Felipe and behind it was the Walled City.

“Did you know that Michael Douglas' movie, Romancing the Stone was shot
there?” Jose pointed out the Castillo. “And now Antonio Banderas
is shooting a movie there too,” he added.

The Castillo de San Felipe was built in 1657 for the express purpose of
protecting the gold from the Pirates before leaving for Spain. 
Standing on the hillside overlooking the harbor, the fortress looked
imposing.
It was the biggest and strongest fortification built by the
Spaniards. It underwent several repairs after the constant attacks
by pirates and foreign powers, but it certainly protected Cartagena
many times in the past.

It was very hot and humid while we were taking pictures of the fort (our
second stop), and so we decided to go to the Old City for some cold
drinks. This was another surprise for me. As Jose pulled over a
side street, he pointed to a colonial hotel. ”This is the most
expensive hotel in Cartagena, only rich people can stay,” he
stated. 

Everywhere you looked, there was 16th and 17th century Spanish colonial architecture. There were delightful restaurants and so many colorful shops to capture ones interest but
without making one feel like you were in a mega mall
. This to me, 
was the prettiest part of the City.

“Lady Gaga bought a house here three months ago, which cost her twelve
million dollars!” Jose volunteered. 


Fernando Botero's sculpture Figura Reclinada, graced the main plaza and we
all hurried to pose with the famous sculpture. Walking through the
Walled City, otherwise known as “Ciudad Amurallada,” one can see
vibrant colors of yellow, orange, and blue. The mostly wooden
balconies were decorated with bright bougainvillea sometimes pink
and sometimes white and orange. There were so many vendors selling
souvenirs and necklaces made from shells. There were a few vendors
wearing their traditional colorful Caribbean dress with matching
colorful aprons and head wraps
. They carry a basin full of tropical
fruit on their heads. One can buy a small cut portion of watermelon
or a combination of melon, pineapple and papaya for a mere dollar. 
This place is a photographer's paradise. It is so easy to get 
carried away by the scene. 

“The are eighteen (18) kilometers long and it surrounds the old
City,” Jose explains. 

“This is one of the oldest houses here,” Jose said, pointing to Sir
Francis Drake's house built in 1586. A group of tourists stood
gawking at the house and just across the street, is Cartagena's
16th century Sto. Domingo cathedral. 

From the Plaza de Sto Domingo, we went to the second gate, where we came
into Plaza Bolivar. In front of the plaza were tinkling water
fountains and a bronze statue of South America's liberator Simon de
Bolivar snuggled amongst the tree tops. Here on one corner of the
square is the Museo del oro y Arquelogia (Gold Museum) and a jewelry
store. 

Our simple stroll through the narrow streets of the Old Town districts El
Centro and San Diego was very pleasurable. Even ordinary houses
with wrought iron balconies were a delight to look at. Most of
these balconies were crammed with cascading pink and purple
bougainvillea and sometimes red geraniums.


Apart from the colonial houses were a plethora of shops selling souvenirs,
wood carvings, and paintings. Restaurants opened onto the streets so
diners could watch the world go by. A few busker's wearing masks,
and costumes stood by, and could easily be mistaken for statues on
the plaza. There was an assortment of fruit carts selling
fresh-squeezed juice and fresh coconuts. Music emanated from
somewhere, making the atmosphere a very lively vibe. 

From the Old City, Jose took us to the Palacio de Inquisicion (Palace of
the Inquisition) built in 1610. It was used by the Spaniards for
torturing and punishing men for religious crimes. The building
contained jails and torture chambers that operated until 1821; when
the inquisitors were expelled by the independence movement. Today, 
these dungeons are painted bright yellow and are converted into
souvenir shops. Men wearing bright Caribbean shirts were hanging
around the front of the shops selling souvenir shirts. A few men
stood selling necklaces made from bright colored beads, and shells. 
The shops were a jumble of beautiful colors and items, and were
teeming with tourists looking for that must buy souvenir item. 

From the dungeons, Jose took us to the Emerald factory. Colombia produces
the best emeralds in the world, so we were curious to look around and
learn something about this precious stone. The cold blast from the 
air conditioned factory was a welcome respite from the heat. There
was a short lecture about the emeralds, and a short tour of a mock up
mine. We checked a few pieces of jewelry but there's no way we would
be interested in buying any of the jewelry, because of the price. 

Jose drove us around from the Boca Grande revealing a striking sea view
and the beach area; where the residents were up and about and by
this time, traffic was already building up. Our last stop was a small
shopping center.

“Cartagena is safe, you don't have to worry here. This is a place for
vacation. Marijuana is legal here - but not drugs!” Jose declared.
“Tonight, people will celebrate and will get drunk for the New
Year`s Eve but that's all. After that, people will go back to work. 
More cruise ships, and more work for us,” he added.

We were all exhausted from the heat and wanted to get back to the port. 
Jose didn't seem affected by the heat while we all lagged behind him
to get back into his taxi. Within minutes we were back at the
port. The shade and the tranquil garden was a delight. Flamingos
were still walking by, and peacocks were strutting their wings. I
caught a few white-faced chattering monkeys as big as teddy bears, 
casting glances at us while I was trying desperately to upload my
blog on the Internet.

If it wasn't so hot, Cartegena would
have been the perfect port stop. The combination of colors,
friendliness of the people and the quaintness of the old City were
truly unforgettable. This is one place we would like to come back 
to and we're so glad that it is not off limits any more!

New Year's Eve on the M.S. Amsterdam

  
Tuesday, December 31, 2013
After a long hot day in Cartagena,Colombia, the last thing we wanted to do was get dressed-up for theNew Year's Eve celebrations. We were back on board at 5:30 pm. 
Our dinner schedule was usually at 5:45 pm.

It was amazing to get back on board and
see that the flower arrangements in the atrium had been changed. The
dining room was fully decorated for New Year's Eve, as was as the
Queen's Lounge ( 2 deck Theatre), Ocean Bar, Crows Nest Bar and
Piano Bar . Three decks of the Atrium were fully decorated and huge
rows of tables were set up for the 11 o'clock appetizers There
were fresh floral arrangement,s and fruit carvings of interesting
shapes and colours. Holland America really did an excellent job,
making everybody on board feel special ushering in the New Year.

We were very late for our sit down
dinner so we ended up eating at the Lido buffet restaurant. We were
both tired from our tour in Cartagena. We watched part of the
evening show and then headed back to our room.

January 1st is the birthday
of our friend Yaser, and we were thinking of him as the clock ticked
closer to midnight. We watched TV and waited until the ball was
dropped in New York before, we finally said adieu to 2013, and
welcomed 2014.


Kulsana wentatiyib, Yaser!



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Monday, December 30, 2013

Transiting The Panama Canal (From West to East)

  
Monday, December 30, 2013
“The Captain is killing us!”
exclaimed one woman inside the elevator. “After feeding us last
Christmas, he's sending us port to port, back to back, with no rest
in between,” she continued.

 "And you love every minute of it,” a man chided.

We all laughed and stepped out of the elevator and walked toward the gangway. 

That was two days ago, when we had three back to back days of shore excursions, after Christmas
. Today is what I should call a semi-relaxed day until we were awakened by
the guides voice on the loud speakers at 6:00 am. His name is Charles McClellan. Holland America had hired him as a guest lecturer. He is a Panamanian American. Yesterday when his lecture was about the construction of the 80 kilo-meter Panama Canal; it was
standing room only at the Queens Lounge. 

He started talking about the complex geographic challenge and the greatest engineering challenge that overwhelmed the French, and then the Americans bought, and took over
the construction. Apart from the geographical challenges, there were a lot of insects and reptiles in the jungles, and workers were dying from malaria and yellow fever. Approximately 25,000 people died during the early construction period. It is equivalent to five
hundred lives sacrificed for every mile of the canal. 

“In 1896, the French sold all of the equipment and construction to the United States government for US$40,000,000, “ Charles stated
.

“On November 18, 1903, Panama signed the Hay-Bunau-Varila treaty granting the USA the right to build, and hold the concession in perpetuity. In 1913, the steam shovels from
East and West met, completing the Canal. Ships navigated the Gaillard
cut for the first time. The SS Ancon was the first ship to transit
the canal,” Charles continued.


“The Gatun locks are 110' feet wide and 1,050 long. Each gates is 65' wide and 7' thick. They are buoyant and float in the water. It takes 8 minutes to raise the ship
to 28.3 feet. Electric Mule Trains are being used to this date. They are locomotive workhorses of the canal to keep the ships perfectly centered. Each mule now costs US$2 million and they are now manufactured by Mitsubishi,” he remarked. The 1st mules
were made by GE and cost US$300,000.

As for the transit fee, Holland America is paying US$134.00 per occupied berth and US$108.00 per unoccupied berth for all crew and passengers. For this cruise, it will be
US$350.000 for the transit fee. There is always a line up, and if
cruise and shipping line companies want to get ahead to the front of
the line, then they must pay a higher fee. Also, ships go both
directions for 24 hours a day. 


“It was in late 1970`s when President
Jimmy Carter gave the Panama Canal away, and Panama took over,”
Charles remarked without elaborating why.


From the Pacific Ocean our ship went
through a series of locks. At 6:30 am. our ship entered the
Miraflores lock, thereafter at the Pedro Miguel, and Culebra Cut.
Soon on our port (left) side,we were within speaking distance of
the container ship Morning Celesta from Singapore. Some of the crew
said their hello's and goodbye's to us. It was amazing how our ship
was just a mere foot and half from the sides of the canal while
guided by the electric mules. In the mid-afternoon, it was the Sun
Lucia freighter on our Starboard (right) side. 

At the bow and around the locks, there
were lot s of birds, especially pelicans, circling around all the
time. Meanwhile, from the promenade of the ship, we could see
primeval forest on the left and right sides of the canal. One can
only imagine how the surrounding shores had even thicker impenetrable
jungle 99 years ago. Yes, next year will be the 100 year anniversary
of the Panama canal. 

From Gaillard cut, the ship entered the
Gatun locks, which to us, was the most amazing phase of the ships
transit. At the Gatun locks, there are a series of gates. One can
see the water rising as in elevators and it raises the ships from sea
level to the level of Gatun Lake, 26 meters above sea level. Then
the locks opened, and with the mules guiding, the ship slowly inched
ahead, now lowered to sea level. 

The water (52 million gallons) used to
raise the vessels in each set of locks is obtained from Gatun Lake by
gravity and poured into the locks through the main culvert system
that extends under the locks chamber from the sidewalls and the
center walls.

We could see the ever diminishing
outlines of the canal gates now finally folding at the sides. The
steel cables attached to the mules were released. It was now 3.57
pm, and our ship was finally at sea level, and headed to Limon
Bay on the Caribbean Sea Side, which is the Atlantic side of the
canal. 


After a long day transiting the Panama
canal from the Pacific ocean, the sun started to fade below the far
horizon. As we stood by the ships railing, Bert pointed to the
brand new lock gates from Italy. They were just delivered for the
expansion project which will add a third lane of traffic, allowing
much larger ships with more cargo capacity. This time, I'm sure it is
not going to take that long to finish, another engineering feat!!.

Overall this was a fantastic experience!


Interesting Facts About the
Panama Canal


During the canal construction, over 200
million cubic meters of material was removed. Were this material to
be placed on rail road flatcars, it would circle the globe four
times.

The canal uses 52 million gallons of
water for every ship to be elevated. Enough water to serve Memphis, TN.

Since its opening in 1914, more than 1 million ships from all over the world, have transited the canal.