Friday, February 28, 2014

Straight To The Heart Of Home, Manila

Luzon

Exhilaration is an understatement of my feelings when we arrived in Manila. Manila is a lively city. It was a Spanish colony for more than 300 years, andfollowing the Spanish American War it was colonized by the Americans.
For me, it has always radiated a cosmopolitan ambiance, despite
being labeled as being behind other Asian Countries in terms of
economic development.

It was still an hour before we were to dock . On the promenade deck, (our deck), the  railing was crowded with excited Filipino crew; all gazing shoreward. Some of them were already busy talking to their loved ones on their cell phones. It was a very happy and touching scene.

Tears started to well up in my eyes, and I started to choke. It was my first visit via a cruise ship, and my first visit since 2008. It is here where I was born,
where both my parents were born, and now laid resting in the cemetery that I so wished to see. Bert tried to say something but I pretended to ignore him, so he would not notice my teary eyes.



Women and men dressed in traditional costume threw their arms into the air welcoming our ship,
and all of us passengers . Suddenly, somewhere down the wharf, started a cacophony of music, laughter and singing.

The warmest of smiles and greetings welcomed us. I think I was the first passenger to rush down the
gangway. At the port terminal, I recognized my nephews Michael, M.A. and my niece's, Michelle and Jovy. Beside, them was my eldest niece Darlene, and her daughter, Celestine. Together they were
holding a banner scribbled in bright colors that read, 

“Welcome HOME, Tita  Lotty & Uncle Bert”.

 They came early and were prepared to stand in line to honor our arrival. It looked like a scene from a movie. Their familiar voices greeted my ears .
Together, they all came and hugged me, and their touch sent an exciting jolt through my body. My heart thumped so loud as I hugged back.

Very soon, the screaming chant of men and women welcoming us, left me breathless. I'd never wanted to go to Manila for just two days, and just get a glimpse of my family and home. But there I was magically, feeling like it is going to last forever. From across the ocean I was finally home !  I tried to pinch myself and check if this intense feeling was just but a dream, but I look around and saw my husband standing, chatting with my family. The warm smiles, hugs, and greetings
couldn't have made me feel more at home .


We took them aboard the ship and showed them around. For two days, each time they showed up, I
tried to talk to anyone, everyone, and all of them at the same time. Between bites of food, I got lost in the blur of conversations and gesturing. Two days later and several meals later, my family's joy was palpable and infectious.

As Bert and I departed, it was hard not to admit this delightful way to reconnect and bond with my family, was well worth it. It may have been too short, and I'd
never want to leave; yet it was an incredible and beautiful end to a journey . It was one of my happiest
and most exciting visits ever.


For the most part, the Ship's management team did a wonderful job in the planning and preparation for our ship's arrival in Manila so the Filipino crew could take some time off and be with their family even if only for a short while. Most of the Filipino crew brought their kids and wives on the ship and they were able to see where Daddy or Mommy work.
Another surprise for us was the performance of the kids from the local orphanage called the The Association de Damas de Filipinas.  The kids performed so well, somebody from the audience cried, “Gene, hire them!” People lined-up to donate to the orphanage (on their cash box) following the kids performance . They raised US$5,000.

On our sail away, Holland America gave us a free flow of champagne, beer, appetizers and all
kinds of drinks; which was really a nice gesture.

The band started playing an hour before our ship started moving. We were already quite a distant
when I looked back and people were still waving at us. On our starboard side was the beautiful sun setting with Corregidor Island in the background. What an unforgettable setting!
P.S.

L'Oreal waterprrof mascara
and dark sunglasses, super priceless!













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Monday, February 24, 2014

Home Of The Stone Money, Yap Island

   
Where else in the world can you find people keeping their money outside of their homes? And where else
can you find a tourist information counter manned by beautiful topless ladies?


The answer is Yap Island. It is the only place in the world where people still use the traditional stone
money, even if the official currency is the US dollar .


“All of our stone money came from Palau Island where there is a quarry and they were transported using the traditional canoes. Some of the stone money took years to complete and a few people from Yap island would stay in Palau island to oversee the production of the stone money,” our guide Al Ganang
explained.


“A few years ago, people started
chipping the actual stone money and started making small souvenirs.
Our government put a stop to that,” he added.

“Oh my, how do you balance the budget
if the stone money was chipped, “ we asked .

“Do you still use it?” “Yes, we
do, for instance if my son committed an offence,” Al continued.

“Do you bang him on the head with the
biggest piece of stone money you have in your yard?”


Al laughed at my question and he proceeded to explain that they used the stone money to appease the family that was offended. In matters of tradition, the stone money still counts and it weighs more, both physically, and traditionally .

Al Ganang owns the Village View Resort
at Maap island which is connected by a small causeway from mainland Yap. Passing over tropical noni trees, guavas, sour sop and palm trees, we obtained an excellent view of the wonders of the Yap
Island. We were so eager that we jumped out of the van, when we got to the bank where some of the stone money of assorted sizes, was simply laying on the ground. Some were so big, that we wondered how
they were even transported in the beginning, and what is the value of such! Moreover, how can one give a change? And how to collect the debt?



At the Stone Money Coin Bank, I leaned over an immense heavy stone and asked Bert to take my picture . It
was one of the biggest pieces of stone money in the bank. In the distance, we heard screaming. It was Jack (should be Ass), whom everybody calls Mr. Wonderful. Bert and I turned around. He was wearing a Yapese grass skirt. Where did it came from? Is he mad?  No, he marched up to the line of stone money and posed.

“Marcia, take my picture!” he
commanded. She gave him a frown. I heard Bert and other people laughing. “I'll take it, “ I volunteered.

I had hardly finished taking Jack's
picture when another man grabbed the grass skirt and ran to the beach . Jack, screamed and gave him a chase. In the background, Jack's wife, Marcia was screaming,
“ Jack! Don't let the grass skirt get wet! Please, don't let it get wet!” she screamed.

The two men took turns wearing the grass skirts and posing on the bamboo raft. I followed them to the beach and took their pictures. They were goofy, ( for wearing a grass skirt) and looked ludicrous, and maybe even desperate. This was one of the funniest occasions of our tour.




Our next stop was at the Village . We were rewarded by the sight of men building traditional canoes, and topless women weaving palm baskets, wearing only colorful grass  skirts. These women dressed in only colorful grass skirts, stood out boldly under the tall coconut trees, bathed in sunlight filtered through the palm leaves.

Meanwhile the beach was just a few feet away and was so inviting with the sound of the lapping waves. Local children were playing, and a few men were busy hoisting a canoe into the water. A light breeze blew from time to time. It was a perfect scene, and it was so hard to leave this peaceful and restful scenery.


Al showed us some other parts of the island, then we went back to the town center, and spent some time at the museum where we saw some more of the stone money . The village people also performed their traditional dances wearing their traditional costume,(minus clothes), prior to our departure.

After we left, I thought about Yap Island being traditional and underdeveloped as it was, but in many
ways, it is a good thing! There are always winners and losers in every development. I hope Yap stays the same--- for a long, long while!



P.S.

To book a room at the Village View you
may email :

Al Ganang at : villageview@mail.fm

























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Friday, February 21, 2014

Another Look Into The past

The morning was beautiful and the sun was shining. I ran outside as usual, to check if we were getting close to our exotic destination- Madang, Papua New Guinea. From the ships railing, we looked down
expectantly, and then right before our eyes was the tropical lush forest with the occasional houses on stilts. There was a dark green timberline, and above that were puffy white clouds against an extremely blue sky .



What greeted me next were several outriggers circling our ship as we got closer to the harbor. I waved back at the people and they got even more excited and started shouting their greetings. “Mala tom tom
dewa dewa!” they said which means good morning in one of their many dialects.


Madang Harbor itself is right out of a holiday brochure with its manicured lawns, palm trees and thatched bungalows . In front of one waterfront home sits a helicopter. In contrast, once we reached the harbor, we were greeted by several topless women doing a “singsing," an exhibition of traditional songs and dances. The women, are in their native grass skirts made from the highly functional sago palm. The
men wore their traditional penis covers under their tiny garment.  Men and women have shiny naked bodies adorned with necklaces of  huge wild boars teeth and shells.


From the time our cruise ship arrived, the port gates became alive with locals clustering like bees. A small group of village vendors spontaneously appeared on the port gates . They laid their inexpensive handicraft on the ground. Among the most popular are wooden masks and totems, bone and shell jewelry, traditional penis covers and bilums, their woven string bags. They created a stir when we got close to some of the vendors and I requested to take their pictures. A throng of men and children gathered around and swarmed around me like bees. They were curious to see the result of the picture taking. Meanwhile, the road was black with locals walking back and forth most of them with their bilums hanging around their foreheads.


Visiting PNG, as we found out, is like a step back in time. Roads are a rare thing and tourist guides do not come in handy. About 60 percent of Papua New Guineans are unemployed and nearly half are illiterate.  Access across the thickly forested country is 
typically by boat or by air.
 


It is also well defined by tribes, remote mountain
communities who live in stilt villages and deep sea fishermen from the coastal islands.

Apart from being famously known as the spot Amelia Earhart took off from in 1937 before her plane's mysterious disappearance, it is known for its lush yet rugged beauty. There are 38 kinds of Birds of Paradise, for example, along with tropical rainforests, lagoons with a rich underwater life and plummeting waterfalls. If you hear screeching, look up. Fruit bats, or "flying foxes" as they are called, are common inhabitants of the trees, even in town.

People live in raised thatched homes made from the sago palm . Many still cook outdoors over fires as evident when we went to the handicraft market. There was a park nearby where women vendors sat in small
wooden stools. They cooked bananas, fish and rice wrapped in palm leaves in a small wood stove. Just like in Alotau, of great notice from the villagers, including children, have teeth and tongues stained red from chewing betel nut, which has narcotic qualities.
They were very friendly and accomodating for pictures and were not ashamed to flash a smile showing their stained teeth. Seeing and taking picture after picture of people chewing betel nuts, made me
wonder if the truth about Papua New Guinea's life is hidden in the betel nuts!




After several hours of walking on the dusty roads of the town of Madang,
Willsz, a local who escorted us the whole day asked his brother
-in-law to give us a lift back to the ship . It turned out that his brother -in-law, Alphonse knew the people we met at the Supermarket in town. Alphonse's sister is married to Amit, (Manager) and he also knew Myoko (Asst. manager) and the Filipino guy, Patrick  (Supervisor). In Madang, it seemed like everybody knew everybody or related to somebody.


We were very happy to have met Amit, Myoko and Patrick, Willz and Alphonse. At the port gates, it was a happy and touching scene when we thanked and said goodbye to Willz and Alphonse. Madang was quite an experience!












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