Wednesday, January 29, 2014

Bora-bora of My Dreams, Paradise Found

 Society Islands

Bora-Bora, the most mythical of the Pacific Islands, and dubbed the in vogue haunt for honeymooners, and celebrities, remains the island of dreams. It has a lot of swanky over the water bungalows that can cost up to $15,000/night. Is that an exaggeration? Not really. It is a high-end playground of the rich and one can expect to see more resorts than old fishing villages. It is a superlative romantic spot.  From the dramatic scenery to the privacy and amenities of the over water bungalows, everything in Bora-bora equals a #10 on the romance scale! 
Seen from the ship's deck, the scenery is just as spectacular above the surface; as below. It was well worth waking up at 6:30 am. to see
the sunrise, and witness the early morning. I joined other passengers to  a great view of Mount Otemanu, the 2,400-ft. peak that towers above the island. Mount Otemanu and Mount Pahia rise  in the center of the island and make an awesome backdrop for the crystal
clear emerald waters of the surrounding lagoon.

Today we are earlier than expected and our tender procedures took only ten minutes or so. “Don't worry Madam, the boat is on the way. Take some pictures, enjoy the market,” a voice on the other end of the cell phone suggested. I then started to relax thinking we're on
island time, and it is still breakfast time here .


Soon, Ken, of La Plage, whom I booked the Champagne trimaran for four hours for a party of twelve, met us at the pier. I was immediately swept
up by his friendliness and “joie de vivre”.

All aboard, on our beautiful trimaran, I sat giddily, and anxious; already feeling over my head, and I wasn't even in the water yet.  Ken, our captain for the day, circumnavigated the island.

Off the Point Matira is an area where the Manta rays congregate. We stopped in the knee deep crystal clear water of the lagoon, with white sand under our feet, to discover and meet these elegant
creatures in their natural environment . One in particular was pregnant. It was the biggest in the group and seemed a bit irritable. We saw several types of rays such as the Spotted rays and the friendly Gray ray who loved being petted, and kissed during our ray feeding excursions.


More black tipped sharks here today,” pointed Ken. They were not threatening, even if they came very close. They looked so majestic, in their natural environment and it was addictive to watch.

After our sting ray and shark encounter, Ken showed us all those over the water Hotel bungalows starting from Palazzo, St. Regis, Four Season's
and including the Bora-Bora Nui (the first and oldest) that was
ruined by a cyclone in 2010 . With perfect white sand beaches and turquoise water, those over the water bungalows, were a visual feast that dazzled our eyes. As we sailed around the island on our trimaran, we saw multi-colored lagoons, surrounded by palm-covered Motus inside a protective necklace of coral. The lagoon is three times the size of the land mass and offers an amazing range of different hue's of blue and turquoise. As Ken navigated its crystal waters, we sat enjoying our cold Hinano beer and a background music from the stereo. Once in a while, we would shriek with excitement every time we see the affectionate sting rays and sharks.

Ken also took us to the southeast of the island to the Coral Garden area . It is a natural underwater park where all types of fish and coral can be found. He showed us the coral garden, like a proud parent, delivering a non stop narrative of their island history, while pointing out the sights. He was also fully respectful and confident with the Moray Eel.


“Madam, over here,” he exclaimed. It was an exciting experience to see the intimidating Moray Eel with its huge eyes and barracuda like teeth; come out of the coral and eat the fish from his hand. Below us, sponges shaped like barrels pulse in and out with jewel hues of ruby, emerald and amber. There were hundreds of tiny colored and striped fish including a parrot fish.  There was just a little current. I took it all in. As I looked up, I couldn't imagine the exhilaration of this experience . It's a completely different universe. Gliding in the calm water, watching
the bright, striped and spotted fish dance around the coral below, is pure happiness. At the end of the day, there is nothing like soaking in the sun, basking in the shallow waters and encountering
the sting rays and sharks.

I'm glad we found a way to experience the best of paradise – the Bora-Bora of my dreams!

P.S.
Two thumbs up for La Plage.
To book for a trimaran, you may contact Isabelle of La Plage at :
laplage.bora@hotmail.com
www . laplage-borabora.com




















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Tuesday, January 28, 2014

La Orana Moorea!

The Island of Moorea is known as the “The Magical Island” is one of
the most visited islands in French Polynesia.

With its its majestic mountain ridges overlooking the island’s two
picturesque bays: Cook’s Bay, and Opunohu Bay, Moorea has the
exaggerated beauty of the Brooke Shield's Blue Lagoon movie. It is
just 12 miles northwest, across the Sea of the Moon, and it is close
enough to see from Tahiti; where our ship was docked the night
before. Polynesian legend describes the panorama of these volcanic
ridges as the second dorsal fin of the fish that became the island of
Tahiti .

One can go diving, snorkeling, boating, surfing, take a safari, hiking, or shop for the magnificent black pearls.

Under clear, crisp blue sky and puffy white clouds, our boat  driven by Capt. Mark passed alongside the expensive Intercontinental Hotel bungalows on stilts on the water.

“We can't peek inside, there's action!” our guide Ziki
exclaimed while we all broke into hysterical laughter.

When we got into the shallow part of the clear water, we all felt so excited as we saw the many manta rays that started to appear out of nowhere followed by black tipped sharks.


Our group let out a cheer as we clambered down to the chest -high water. I felt electrified.

 Wow!” I exclaimed as I looked down in the water. Shuffling through super -friendly stingrays and hundreds of bright colored damsel fish, I left my swimming pals. I'm alone now, with eyes wide
open, I focused on those tiny fish and the sting rays. My breath was steady and deep. I continued my awareness of my surrounding and suddenly, on my right, I saw several sharks gliding. They came as
close to a foot in front of my face. Despite their beady eyes, they weren't scary at all. Watching them swim effortlessly is like watching an orchestrated ballet. They soon joined the group of
stingrays that were being fed by our guide . Pretty soon, I forgot that the rest of the world even exists, I was now in my own
world.

I must have spent almost an hour snorkeling, and kissing the stingrays. Our guide Ziki told us it was time to get back on the boat though we were still somewhat reluctant to do so. Where did
all the time go?

Our next stop was at a Motu (inlet) where our Captain, Mark, of Albert Transport took us. Together with Ziki, Graziela and Torei, they prepared our barbecued lunch from scratch. Ziki asked me to help him demonstrate how to make the Polynesian ceviche called poisson crue. Lunch was delicious and plentiful as well as the local
Hinano beer and Rum Punch .

After lunch, Ziki demonstrated how to open a coconut, how to check if it is bad or not, and he proceeded to open one using just a stick
from the beach. He was funny with his French Polynesian accent, and he made us all laugh with his funny quips - yet he was a very knowledgeable guide.

Meanwhile, tucked away in the hills and alongside the lagoons, there were charming peaceful villages, and mile upon mile of pristine white and pink sand beaches just waiting to be explored. The fertile valleys are home to plantations of pineapple, cotton,
coffee and sugarcane.

The mountains are also fully accessible to everyone. There are
lots of 4 x 4's for rental to venture across streams, valleys, and waterfalls . Belvedere overlook is a popular stop on the circle-island or 4 x 4 tours. Here, one can marvel at the panoramic views of the twin bays, and the plantations of Opunohu.Valley.

Clearly, there are dozens of activities one can enjoy in Moorea's magnificent blue green lagoons.

One can  celebrate a new romance or a special anniversary, and enjoy the perfect secluded place to do everything, or nothing at all.
And after our experience with Ziki and his team, our re-entry into civilization will be hard. Why didn't we come here before?





P.S. For an unforgettable but reasonable lagoon excursion with motu picnic, you may contact Maria of Albert Transport at :

 info@albert-transport.net





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Monday, January 27, 2014

Tahiti, Queen of the Pacific

Majestic peaks, dramatic deep valleys, crystal clear streams, soaring
waterfalls, rugged coastlines, fields of tropical flowers and
sparkling beaches. That is the description of Tahiti, the Queen of
the pacific. It is the largest island of French Polynesia, towering
over the ocean like a proud and royal Queen Papeete is the Capital of Tahiti, boasting several world-class 

resorts, spas, 
vibrant markets, and charming artisan boutiques . Its unique combination of fine dining in unique restaurants, nightclubs, and outdoor activities make it an ideal family destination.

Here you can experience untouched beaches, local culture and just about any island activity. It is my first time in Tahiti, but not for Bert. As usual, like in so many places, it is a tug on the memory for him. It is his first trip back after more than thirty years.

Today we are not in a hurry. I did not book any tour, and I just want to look around, and perhaps rent a bike in order to get around. I read somewhere that you can circle the island in just three hours. I also
want to check the black pearls that are synonymous with Tahiti. My mind wandered about various images of the perfect string of pearls .
They come in assorted shades, and I've heard that they are everywhere in this island.

At the dock, we were greeted by traditional Tahitian singers with smiles so warm, and looks so gorgeous. It helped me understand why Fletcher Christian led a mutiny in 1789 against Captain Bligh and his supporters on the H.M. S. Bounty.

After taking many photos, we continued to walk toward the main paved road on the island. It became apparent that here in Tahiti you can still
experience real Polynesian culture. We were looking at rows of shops, and one of them sold French bread at the Boulangerie , there was also an espresso bar on another corner . Not far away was a
couple dining at a very French influenced restaurant, filled with tropical flowers. For all the pearl shops and boutiques, nothing had prepared me for the direct contrast of it all. It feels a lot more Gallic, and a bit more cosmopolitan, except for the way the people
look and dress. A few yards behind us, the crystal clear water of the lagoon is enticing. The charming waterfront esplanade is also reminiscent of the French Riviera.

It's just too much to accept, how else could you trump that?

We spent most of our time at the Marche, a colorful bustling municipal market. There were intricate wood carvings, coconut and monoi oil in various scents, designer style pareos in bright Gauguin colours,
mother of pearl shells, and Ukuleles of different sizes .

Best of all, there were gorgeous floral arrangement that were surprisingly reasonable, from US$10.00 that one can buy and bring back to the cabin.

Indeed, I didn't get my Tahitian black pearls, but being able to talk to the friendly locals and taking their photographs more than made up for it. Also, somehow, someway, that gave me the reason to come back!



















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Friday, January 24, 2014

Scenic Cruising- Pitcairn Island

Pitcairn Island is a volcanic island
with a very fascinating history and culture. Its population,which
consists of a grand total of 47 residents, are all direct descendants
of the Bounty mutineers, and their Polynesian consorts. It is only 2
square miles, or roughly 5 square km in size, with Adamstown as the
working capital. It has few buildings, and the town is for the most
part on top of the hill.

The mutineers of Captain Bligh, led by Fletcher Christian; settled on Pitcairn Island, believing that the
Royal Navy would never find them . They set the now infamous HMS Bounty on fire around 1791, in an effort to hide their location. One reason for the mutiny, was believed to have been caused by their 5
month stay in Tahiti. The beautiful women on the island were glad to go to bed with the men. When Capt. Bligh ordered them to leave, the crew mutinied within three weeks of setting sail.

Today we had a pre planned meeting with 42 of the people from Pitcairn Island. They came out to our ship, in their long boats, laden with bundles of souvenir items for sale, their world-famous honey, and their sought after stamps. They also brought bananas, including a few banana trees for decoration in the dining room, and other tropical fruit like papayas and pineapples.
In return, the ship brought supplies for them worth US$10,000 which
they had ordered in advance . The items ranged from powdered milk, flour, tea, cookies, and similar staples.

Each resident takes a lot of pride in their individual lineage. Every member of the group that came on
board, sold their own individually crafted items with their name carved on the back, in particular the wood carvings from Miro wood.  Those carvings were in various shapes, such as sting rays, sharks,
dolphins, whales, turtles, and even walking sticks with the model of the Bounty. They also sold Tapa clothes and painted Hattie leaves.  Their most popular produce is the exceptionally high quality  Pitcairn Honey. It is exported to New Zealand and the United Kingdom and said to be the favourite of Queen Elizabeth and Prince Charles.

“What generation are you?” asked a gentleman addressing one of the younger boy who came on board.

“I'm 8th generation. My name is Bradley Dean Christian. I have two younger sisters but
they are sick so they are staying in the island with my mother,”  replied the boy with his British accent.

He went on to say that on a day, he can carve 25 pieces of the souvenir items he was selling. I asked him if he would like some chocolates and his eyes lit up. So I run to the cabin and gave him some of our pillow chocolates. He was very thankful and then he went on to say that I should meet the lone Filipino American in the group.

“Her name is Shirley Young,” he said. “I'll take you to her table,” he said leading the way .

I met the gregarious Shirley Young who is married to David Young. She said she's the only Oriental person, (Filipino), on the Island and would like to recruit some of the crew
for .........??????

“You haven't got any takers?” I jokingly asked.

 “You've got to help me recruit, every time they hear that it will be another three months before they will see another ship, they always back out!” she explained, jesting again????.

 We exchanged email addresses, hugged and kissed each other on the cheek and bid farewell and a promise to look for “recruits”. I also hugged Bradley and said I wish that we could see each other again in the future. For an instant, I saw a momentary sadness in his eyes, but he recovered quickly. In a second, he was himself again, a boy growing up isolated in a far away island. Perhaps, it is that isolation that made him seem detached from any of us .

They left in their long boats laden with umpteen more items, and numerous more friends to write and e-mail them!

 If anybody wants to take part in a real “survivor story”, Pitcairn Island is the place to go!

 For more information on how to get there you may contact Shirley and David Young at:

 bubushu@yahoo.com

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