“Hurry up, they are already lining up at the gangway.” I summoned Bert.
“We need to be back by 4:30 pm and it will take more than an hour
to get to Antigua from here,” I emphasized.
Antigua is the main attraction in this part of Guatemala
. It is a UNESCO
World Heritage site. While Guatemala has 22 volcanoes, it has 23
ethnic groups with 23 different dialects. The native Mayans can be
identified by their colourful traditional clothes, from bright blue
greens, to indigo, red and orange. They are an absolute
photographers delight.
As we got ashore, I was greeted by two Guatemalan ladies giving away
some maps and brochures. Behind them were elderly men playing the
wooden xylophone. Local music was being played on their instruments.
Further behind, were rows and rows of souvenir stalls full of
special Mayan textiles, attractive cotton blouses, colourful belts,
blankets, t-shirts, rugs and many kinds of trinkets. The shops are
all over the place and I was tempted to stop and check
.
I've seen them before, grabbed some of them before, and brought them home
before. There's no way I was going to bring home the same crafts.
But I saw some beautiful beaded bracelets that I thought might be
good for my daughter Charelle and her cousin, Michelle. I picked-up
the bracelets and just then Bert hollered, “ I thought we were
going to look for the guide?” he asked. “Don't worry, I'm only
going to take some pictures. Just give me a second,” I said.
Outside
the port we found our perfect guide. He was tall and lanky and very
dark skin. He spoke very good English. His name is Luis. He walked
us out to the parking lot and we inspected his van if it was really
air-conditioned
. The driver's name is also Luis so we called our
guide as Luis 1, and our driver as Luis 2. There were six of us and
Luis quoted us US$35.00 per person. Bert got out of the van and
asked a few more cruise passengers if they were willing to join us
for a trip to Antigua. Soon there were eleven of us and our price
was re- negotiated to US$30.00 per person.
The road to Antigua was well paved and clean. Our first stop was a
coffee plantation. Guatemalans are very proud of their expertise
when it comes to making coffee so we were excited to include this in
our itinerary. We were the first to arrived at the plantation. At
the parking lot, I was greeted by the same Mayan textiles and
handicraft, even backed-up by two women doing a back weaving
technique on their loom
. “Oh no, not again, I am not buying
anything,” I silently said to myself.
I ignored the ladies trying to get me to look at their handwoven table
runners, bags and pillow cases. I went straight inside and pretended
to check something that looked like ponchos. “They are not
ponchos,” the senora explained while quickly grabbing a complete
ensemble and putting it on me. She asked me to hold the sarong like
skirt while she grabbed a beaded belt to complete the outfit. It was
then that she realized that I still had my backpack on me and the
belt and skirt wouldn't fit.
I giggled and found an excuse to ask for the sample coffee and walked
away from the possible pressure to buy something
.
Bert and I are not coffee lovers. The strong bitter taste confirmed that
we needn't buy any coffee bags.
So we moved on to try the fresh cooked Guatemalan flour tortillas for a
taste of the local cuisine. Guatemalan food is a combination of
Spanish, European and Indian cuisine. An old woman was molding the
corn tortillas in her bony and spidery hands and throwing them onto a
hot traditional grill. We could taste the tortilla with its filling
of beans, white cheese, and shredded cabbage with some chili, for
just a dollar. Bert and I were excited to try and couldn't wait to
eat.
Here is an idiotic episode of the tour. A woman tourist approached us and
said, “ I don't want to eat any of those fillings. I don't know
how to eat just the tortillas alone,” “Then why don't you just
not put in any of the fillings!” Bert sternly replied.
With that, she walked away. I guess she didn't expect to get that kind
of tip on how to eat a Guatemalan staple.
We arrived in Antigua shortly after we left the coffee plantation. It
was a bright sunny day with white puffy clouds in the sky. Another
tourist trap stop was the Jade Factory. It wasn't too bad because we
were able to use the shop's washroom. We listened to the guide
explain the different kinds of jade and how during the Mayan times,
they were commonly used for adornment even in funerals. None of us
bought anything because of the prices. From the jade factory we
moved on to the market which was a walking distance from the central
square.
``Cuanto custa `` I enquired from a vendor. ``Treinta dollares,`` she firmly
replied. ``Disquento por favor, katorse,`` I bargained.
Here at the market in Antigua and elsewhere in Central America is where one
can practise his or her bargaining skills. Not to be outdone, Bert,
my husband, the ultimate cheap pilot, started his part. “I do
not have a lot of money. I'm not a rich Gringo. How about ten
dollars???”
I have heard this many times. This is his punch line. He continues to say something.
Beads of sweat had formed on his forehead. His shirt was soaked. It
was super hot inside the marketplace and Bert continued to act like
a poor famished Gringo. He was beginning to look pitiful and comical
at the same time. It did not seem to work but the vendor started to
laugh. She threw her hands up in the air and said, “Okay, ten
dollars.”
At a nearby stall, he spotted a leather belt with the design of the
colorful Quetzal, Guatemala's national bird. It looked really nice.
I grabbed one that looked like it was the biggest and would fit
him. He tried to loop it around his waist on top of what he is wearing. “Mas
largo, Senora,” I asked. We need a longer one, this does not
fit,” I explained. The Senora ran to the next stall and looked for
a Canadian size belt. Alas, she got one and after some bargaining we
happily walked out of the market and proceeded to the Central Square.
Here was the highlight of the tour for me. I was so delighted taking
photos of the Mayans in their traditional garb. I managed to make
friends with one whose name is Ruth Nohemy Sagche. She gave me her
email and asked me to keep in touch and to send her a copy of the
picture.
It may be a long trip to go to Antigua from the port, but making friends
with somebody you just meet on the plaza made it all worthwhile.
Don't you worry Ruth, I will send you your pictures and I shall keep in
touch!
